By Vincent Safuto staff writer
February 28, 2004
The ongoing war against food rages unabated, and the latest volley has been the war against these things called carbohydrates, also known as "carbs."
When I was a kid, a carb was something that lived under the hood of a car. It was the place where the transubstantiation of physics turned fuel and air into a mixture that could be squirted into a cylinder in a car engine. A spark plug would ignite the mixture, and my father would drive me somewhere.
Today, though, consuming carbs, apparently, is the equivalent of consuming raw plutonium with a side order of uranium-toasted garlic bread, and we are supposed to "fight back" against these evil things, or at least not consume so much of them.
Indeed, when I look at the on-screen cable TV guide mixed with the ads for credit repair and the latest celebrity profiles I see a woman dressed as a boxer, and she's delivering a right hook. The words encourage us to fight back against carbs.
Most nutrition talk sounds like astrology to me. And, apparently, it didn't do low-carb diet guru Dr. Robert Atkins much good; he was reported to be overweight when he died (though those reports, like his high-protein regimen, are hotly disputed).
While much of what's said about carbs actually seems to make some sense, there are other things being said that are offensive to my sensibilities.
It's when the food types start taking on pizza that it's time to call in Tony Soprano.
Yes, lurking within the dough upon which human hands place cheese and tomato sauce are those dreaded carbs, and some people want them to go away.
So pizza parlor owners are trying to find low-carb dough, or some way to provide the cheese and sauce and pepperoni without the bread.
To me, this is going too far. For Italians, pizza isn't just a food, it's a religion. I believe that the time has come to stand up and fight to keep pizza pizza.
When I talk about pizza, I don't mean that thin-crusted stuff that they deliver with all sorts of strange objects atop it. I mean pizza as it's made at thousands of little storefronts in the city called New York.
From infancy, the Italian in New York learns how to consume a slice without getting most of it all over himself, though, even into adulthood, it's hard to avoid making an unholy mess when eating really good New York pizza. By that, I mean pizza as it's made by guys named Guido or Giovanni or Luigi in one of those places where there's a photo of the Pope on the wall and framed dollar bills proudly marking the first money the store made.
Seeing pizza succumb to the low-carb craze makes me want to cry, rather than become violent. But I know that most New York pizza places will keep the faith, carbs be darned.
Let the tree-bark chewers have their pizza without the dough. As for me, I'm sticking with the good stuff.
Vincent F. Safuto is a copy editor for the Press Journal. Reach him at ( Vincent.Safuto@scripps.com).
--------
